Underclings
When & Why to Use It
Underclings are useful when:
- The hold faces downward or is angled beneath an edge.
- You need to pull up and push away to stay on the wall.
- The next move involves reaching up or shifting your body over the feet.
- You’re in a vertical-to-slightly-overhanging section where body tension helps create force against the hold.
- They’re common in technical terrain, are key in mantles and arete sequences, and help manage body position on routes with directional changes.
What It Looks Like
The palm faces upward, fingers curled under the hold. The elbow points down or slightly out, and the shoulder engages to keep the arm stable. The climber usually pushes with their feet—either directly below or offset—to drive the hips upward or away from the wall. Often, the body twists or leans out to maximize pressure between the feet and the hold. Proper undercling use shows: Low, pushing feet to counterbalance the upward pull. Open hips or slight rotation to keep tension. Controlled, upward-reaching movements from the undercling base.
Common Steps
- Reach under the hold with your palm facing up.
- Curl your fingers and pull up into the hold.
- Step low and push with your legs to maintain counterpressure.
- Keep your hips close or drive them upward as needed.
- Move smoothly into the next position while maintaining tension.
Key Principles & Cues
- “Pull up, push down.”
- “Undercling and rise.”
- “Oppose to hold—don’t just grab.”
- “Low feet, high movement.”
Common Mistakes
- Trying to muscle it with the arms alone: Inefficient and tiring
- Not generating enough push from the legs: Leads to slipping or ineffective tension
- Grabbing too early or too upright: Makes it hard to stabilize or reach upward
- Letting hips sag: Reduces pressure and weakens the undercling
