Dyno
When & Why to Use It
Dynos are necessary when:
- The target hold is out of reach for a static or semi-dynamic move.
- The terrain is steep or blank, offering no intermediate holds or footholds.
- You need to generate explosive power to cover distance quickly.
- They’re common in bouldering and competition climbing, where wall angles and route design intentionally force dynamic problem-solving and coordination.
What It Looks Like
The climber builds tension in a crouched or extended position, then pushes explosively with the legs while guiding the motion with the arms. At takeoff, both feet (and often hands) leave the wall. The body extends in flight toward the target hold(s), aiming to catch and stabilize on contact. After catching, the climber controls the swing or momentum and repositions for the next move. Key visual indicators: Clear load phase (tension building). Simultaneous release of feet and/or hands. Mid-air extension and targeting. Snappy catch and core engagement on landing.
Common Steps
- Identify the target hold and visualize the path.
- Load tension through bent legs and pulling arms.
- Initiate a coordinated jump, driving with your legs and leading with your chest.
- Extend mid-air and track the hold visually.
- Catch the hold with both hands (or one in some cases) and absorb the impact with your arms and core.
- Reestablish foot contact and control your swing.
Key Principles & Cues
- “Jump with your legs, guide with your hands.”
- “Full commit—no halfway.”
- “Eyes on the hold, chest follows.”
- “Catch and control.”
Common Mistakes
- Not controlling the swing after catching: Causes slips or resets
- Undercommitting the jump: Leads to short reaches or awkward catches
- Jumping with only upper body effort: Legs should be the main power source
- Poor targeting or not watching the hold: Reduces catch accuracy
