Three Fingered Sloth

Challenge Level

Wall Type

Focus Area

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Related Techniques: Open Hand Grip, Precise Footwork

Skills You Need to Know: Body Position, Leg Engagement

Description

Titled after the finger position common for sloths, the "Three Fingered Sloth" drill is designed to challenge your finger strength and climbing technique. By limiting yourself to using only three fingers on each hand in an open-hand position, this advanced drill will push you to optimize your body positioning and footwork, especially when handling small cuts or crimps. You may be wondering why this isn't in the Strength and Endurance Drill section. That is because this is a vital skill in climbing, and the main purpose of this drill is skill-related, not strength-building.

Instructions

Start the Climb : Begin climbing one of the selected routes. Three-Finger Rule : Use only your pointer finger, middle finger, and ring finger for this climb. Maintain an open hand position, where your hand and fingers are bent less than 90 degrees. Complete the Route : Make your way to the top, adhering to the three-finger rule throughout the climb.

Notes & Tips

This drill is most effective when applied to routes with small in cuts or crimps. If you find the three-finger approach challenging on small holds, consider re-evaluating your body position and footwork to adapt to the difficulty. Be cautious not to overstrain your fingers, especially if you are new to this type of drill. Take adequate rest and stop if you feel any signs of discomfort or fatigue.

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